Yes! Besides having facial hair, there are structural differences between men’s skin and women’s skin. Androgen (testosterone) stimulation causes an increase in skin thickness, which accounts for why a man’s skin is about 25% thicker than a woman’s. In addition to being thicker, a man’s skin texture is tougher.
Sebum (oil) and its production also differ in both genders. After puberty, sebum production is greater in males than females, which is attributed to androgen secretions, which accounts for why men have longer-lasting acne. Though men have smaller oil-secreting sebaceous glands, they generally have oilier skin.
WHAT ABOUT COLLAGEN ….ARE THERE DIFFERENCES?
Regardless of age, men have a higher collagen density than women. Lucky, right? Because collagen content is directly related to the signs of skin aging, it has been said a woman’s skin is about 15 years older than a man’s of the same age. However, men are less sun savvy than women, meaning they don’t use sunscreens as much. This could help explain why the “15 year” skin age difference is not readily noticed. UV damage from the sun can add years to a man’s skin and negate the benefit of slowed intrinsic aging. This theme is highlighted by the complex interplay between estrogens and androgens in men and women, and how changes and adaptations with aging affect the disease process. Sex steroids modulate epidermal and dermal thickness as well as immune system function, and changes in these hormonal levels with aging and/or disease processes alter skin surface pH, quality of wound healing, and propensity to develop autoimmune disease, thereby significantly influencing potential for infection and other disease states. Gender differences in alopecia, acne, and skin cancers also distinguish hormonal interactions as a major target for which more research is needed to translate current findings to clinically significant diagnostic and therapeutic applications.
What is the difference between a “professional” skin care cosmeceutical vs. a brand you can find “over-the-counter” at a drug or department store?
Too often, consumers fall under the spell of cosmetic company marketing and advertising claims, and will spend a lot of money on expensive over-the-counter cosmetics that really don’t work in the skin.
The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) divides skin care products into two distinct categories: pharmaceutical and cosmetic. Topical pharmaceuticals penetrate through the layers of the epidermis and affect the structure and function of the skin (think of prescription topical steroids or Retin-A). Cosmetics are defined as ” … articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance …” Pharmaceutical drugs may undergo more than 10 years of drug approval testing that may cost hundreds of millions of dollars — whereas, cosmetics do not have to prove their claims, but they can cite “scientific studies” of the ingredients used in their product formulations to validate the safety and efficacy of the ingredient formula.
Cosmeceuticals are the “happy medium” between a pharmaceutical and a cosmetic. The word “cosmeceutical” really is not categorized by the FDA, but it is a word that is used in the professional skin care arena to describe a cosmetic that actually has biological action, but is regulated as a cosmetic — meaning, again, the formula does not technically have to prove efficacy or safety, but it does contain an ingredient that may have activity in the skin.
You will find many of the same catch phrases when you read an advertisement for skin care: “Dermatologist-Tested,” “Clinically Proven,” “Clinical Studies show that …,” “Clinically Tested.” But interpret these phrases with caution, especially when trying to choose a skin care line that works best for your practice and clientele. Since cosmetic companies really don’t have to prove efficacy claims, the special active ingredient touted in the formula only has to appear somewhere on the ingredient list — ingredients are listed in content order, from most to least, so if you see that “active” on the last half of the list (usually alphabetically) you can bet you are getting a tiny percentage (enough to be effective in the formulation?) of that specific ingredient. When you see these types of claims, start asking questions:
Because many consumers “self-diagnose” when choosing a skin care product to try from a drug or department store, these products must be made safely, meaning, big cosmetic companies cannot afford to have masses of consumers with issues from using very active products — so, that skin care product may feel good and smell good, but it likely won’t have a lot of activity in the formulation.
Over-the-counter cosmetics are also manufactured and distributed in very large batches, and are packed with almost as many preservatives as “active” ingredients! In addition, many over-the-counter cosmetics simply do not penetrate the skin barrier, where the ingredient formula would have a therapeutic benefit to the health of the skin. Remember too, it’s not just about one really fabulous ingredient — it’s the mixture of the right amounts of active ingredients working synergistically together that work best in the skin, similar to how oral multivitamins work internally in our bodies with a mixture of vitamins and minerals for best absorption.
It is important to note that many single ingredients that test very well in in-vitro testing actually have no function in human skin when mixed into a formulation — yet, we still believe the “clinical study” claims from in-vitro studies. As well, many companies that cite clinical study results will not provide clinical study documentation. Rare is the cosmeceutical company that tests their finished formulations and then offers full clinical study details for the public to see. You will sometimes find peer-reviewed cosmetic formulation studies in dermatology or cosmetic surgery journals, which lends more credibility to the testing process.
Since licensed estheticians do not prescribe pharmaceutical products, offering a well formulated and tested cosmeceutical line is the next best option to pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceuticals that are professionally recommended by a licensed esthetician, physician or other educated skin care professional generally have a higher amount of active ingredients with proven and safe formulations, and offer delivery systems that reach targeted cells in the skin. In your search for safe and effective skincare for your clientele, try to find cosmeceutical companies that offer clinical testing information, and learn how to ask questions and interpret clinical study details. As a licensed skin care professional, research is imperative to help make the best decision for your clients.Visit the Atrium Medical Practice to learn more.